shirtdetails

要著得又型又大體，注意五大恤衫細節，令任何身型嘅男士都可以變身做型男。
Learn the 5 key details to a great shirt and never let the shirt wear you again.

1. Fabric

⼀件「⾼級感」的恤衫，除了要擁有合⾝剪裁外，更重要的是⽤料的質素與功能。作為事業型男⼠，返⼯要⾒客應酬、放⼯再直落Happy Hour，⼀件⾼質感的「Easy-Care」恤衫絕對是致勝關鍵。現時新⼀代的恤衫⾯料選擇眾多且時尚功能兼備，能因應不同場合所需作出挑選：Cotton⾯料的恤衫最適合經常外出應酬的專業⼈⼠，質感柔軟親膚且容易打理，令你在任何場合都能輕鬆駕馭；⽽熱愛運動、活動量更⼤的上班⼀族則更推薦選⽤兼具吸濕排汗功能的Nylon/Spandex ⾯料，富彈性及速乾功能的物料令你活動更⾃如，⽅便⼯作的同時給予你更⼤的可能性。

Besides a tailored fit, the essence of a quality shirt lies in its fabric. The versatility of the “Easy-Care” collection will take you through every challenge from work to play at ease. Cotton, being one of the most classic natural fibres, is truly breathable and a great composition mixer to become a diversity of characters and textures - fit for your every occasion and mood. Choose a Nylon or Spandex blend and you’ll have a quick dry, crease-free shirt with stretch.

	專業型 （成⽇⾒客） Professional	運動型 （活動量⼤） Athletic	應酬型 （⼀⽇走幾場） Socialite	空中⾶⼈ （周圍⾶） Jetsetter	Causal型 (Smart causal) Entrepreneurial
Fabric  Type	- Cotton	- Knit,    Nylon,     Cotton	- Cotton	- Cotton,    Nylon	- Cotton,    Linen
Shirt  Functionality	- Comfort  - Easy-care	- Stretch  - Quick dry  - Easy-care  - Wicking	- Easy-care  - Comfort  - Non-iron	- Non-iron  - Quick dry  - Comfort  - Stretch	- Comfort  - Breathable

恤衫的領⼝款式眾多，可基於不同喜好及配搭作挑選。標準領（Classic Collar）是最常⾒的典型英式領⼝設計，最適合來⾃各⾏各業、因⼯作繁忙⽽沒有時間"左襯右襯"的男⼠們。⽽寬⾓領/⼋字領（Spread Collar) 的左右領⽚敞開⾓度較標準領⼤，帶有濃濃的歐陸風情，最適合配搭溫莎結出席正式場合之⽤。還有時下非常普及的扣領恤衫（Button-down Shirt），是⼀種帶休閒感的美式恤衫款式，多配上同樣走休閒路線的Oxford ⾯料，更有IT專才的品味。領尖上縫有鈕扣的Button-down Shirt 領型百搭，適合所有臉型的男⼠，⽽領尖上的鈕扣扣上後可令領⼦不易變形。如果喜歡更簡約的風格，則可選擇以⼩短領襯衫配上窄呔，清新簡潔之餘更顯時尚感。

There are many types of shirt collars, designed for different styles and occasions. The Classic Collar, as its name would suggest, is the traditional English collar and the most versatile. The Spread Collar, in comparison, opens at a wider angle to frame a Windsor knot tie. The Button-Down needs no introduction, widely known as the American casual with two buttons at the tip of each collar. For the most fashion-forward look, opt for the minimal Mandarin collar that sits short and snug on the neck.



3. Sleeve 袖長

袖⼝的長度是能彰顯男⼠品味的重要元素之⼀。合適的袖長能將配搭的⾼級腕錶恰到好處地展示出來，既不浮誇⼜不會過分遮掩，可說是非常講究。正確的袖⼝長度應稍長於⻄裝袖⼝，以覆蓋⼿腕腕⾻約一寸最為合適, 適量地露出恤衫袖⼝可令袖⼝位置看起來俐落有層次，同時顯得⼿臂更修長。雖然現時多流⾏把袖⼝的長度改短，但其實衣袖會隨著⾝體活動向上縮，若不想恤衫變成七分袖，建議還是跟隨標準袖長設計，穿著舒適之餘，舉⼿抬膊亦無須“就住就住”。

The sleeve length of a man’s shirt is the giveaway of its quality and his style. The right length will not only showcase a wrist watch tastefully but also give a nice proportion appearance of the whole arm. Although fashion over time can test the trend of sleeve lengths, one rule remains constant - that it should sit an inch beyond the wrist bone, and must still be visible under the sleeve of the jacket when the arms are bent. Afterall, it is all about layering when a suit comes to play.



4. Cuff 袖口

⼀件恤衫的細緻質感往往藏⾝於你或許從未留意過的微細之處：上⾄衣領、下⾄袖⼝，其實都隱藏著裁縫師的⼩巧思。為了遷就每位客⼈的穿戴習慣，⼀般量⾝訂製的恤衫的兩邊袖⼝或會出現⼤⼩不⼀的情況，其實是為了預留⼿錶的位置，讓你在佩戴⼿錶或飾物後亦不會令袖⼝位置有任何不適。更別⼩看袖⼝處的⼩⼩鈕扣，每款設計都是有著統⼀規格，單鈕、雙鈕（ Two-Button Cuff）以及法式翻邊袖⼝（French Cuff），從休閒到正式，每個細節都⼀絲不苟。

A shirt’s quality lies in the finest of detail. An artisan’s work is the most meticulous at the cuffs, taking the wearer’s lifestyle and habits into consideration such as whether watches and cufflinks need to be accommodated for. There is of course the art of sleeve length that makes sure the perfect amount of the cuff is revealed from under the jacket to create that refined, layered look. There is also the factor of buttons - from Single Button Cuffs, Two-Button Cuffs, Adjustable Button Cuffs down to French Cuffs - all with its own merit, style and formality.



5. Button鈕扣

看似微不⾜道的恤衫鈕扣，其實在恤衫的設計及質感上有著舉⾜輕重的影響⼒。恤衫鈕扣⼀般分為仿殼鈕及真殼鈕，以四孔扣最為常⾒。耐⽤的仿殼鈕因性價比更⾼，故此常⽤於⼀般的恤衫鈕扣配搭，⽽精緻⾼貴的真殼鈕則較多出現在⾼級的正裝恤衫。另外，鈕扣上的縫製⼿法原來亦⼤有學問！一般訂製裇衫的鈕扣會採用雙排平行及十字缝法，而高端訂制裇衫的鈕扣會用三抓式缝法或由人手縫製。後備鈕扣在訂製恤衫的過程中，裁縫師總會細⼼了解你的⽣活習慣，並為活動量⼤的你悉⼼準備數顆後備鈕扣，以備不時之需——熱愛運動的你怕弄失鈕扣？緊記讓裁縫師多為您準備數顆後備鈕扣，有備無患！

Buttons are practically the unsung heroes of every shirt. Besides the precise colour matching to the fabric, its material and how they are stitched onto the shirt all add to the quality of a good shirt. Imitation shells are durable and more cost-effective, while Mother of Pearl shells are more exquisite and more common among high-end formal shirts. When it comes to fastening them to the shirt, the most popular methods are the Double-row Parallel Stitch and the Cross Stitch. There are also hand sewn buttons usually with a Three Point Stitch in high-end shirts. At the end of the day, a good tailor will make sure sufficient spare buttons are included with the shirt so it outlasts your daily grind.